I'm almost two weeks in to my four+ month time as a Fulbright Scholar in Riga, Latvia and I am hoping to return to regular blogging to share what I'm learning and experiencing here. So I thought I might begin with a bit about Riga and Latvia. Latvia is one of the three Baltic countries (along with Estonia and Lithuania) on the Baltic Sea--it's pretty far north! It's not very big--about half the size of New York State--and is fairly flat, and deeply forested. The country has a long and complex history--centuries of German, Swedish, Polish-Lithuanian and Russian rule. It was established as an independent republic in 1918, but then of course, the 20th century brought occupation by both the Nazis and the Soviet Union (the latter which lasted 45 years). The country became once again, an independent republic in 1991. Latvia's a part of the EU and NATO and support for Ukraine is notable here seen both in blue and yellow flags everywhere, but also in conversation.
Riga celebrated its 825th birthday this past August and the city itself reflects all those centuries! Remember the Hanseatic League from Western Civ classes? Riga was a part of this trading network. You can see medieval architecture in the old town, some of the most spectacular Art Nouveau buildings anywhere, wooden clapboard buildings interspersed among 19th and 20th century architecture, including some Soviet blocs and the zeppelin hangars turned Central Market, and newer architecture including the mountainous National Library.
The museum, cultural heritage and contemporary art community is vibrant, with all sorts of activities that I'll be exploring. I've already been out to the contemporary craft fair at the Ethnographic Museum and visited the Natural History Museum to see the community's display of dahlias.
But it's complicated, of course, which is what I want to learn more about here. My interest in this part of the world goes back a long way--I'm fascinated by the way places make and remake themselves physical, emotionally and societally. I've been lucky enough to get to know some Latvian colleagues through ICOM and the wonderful Baltic Museology School--that helped my decision to apply for a Fulbright here. Big questions to consider: How does 20th century history affect lives today? How should museums address that history? What does it mean to be Latvian or a Latvian citizen? How can cultural organizations help build civic participation and identity? What sorts of intangible heritage help shape that identity? All of these questions are complicated by the residents who are non-citizens, who colonized Latvia from other Soviet republics (see label from Museum of the Occupation above.) Needless to say, the war in Ukraine has deepened concerns around Russia in every way. Elections are in October, and I don't understand yet all the issues, but see big wall posters around the city for different parties.
Also on the learning plan? Finding the best coffee and pastry place in the city! Stay tuned.
